Navigating Iceland
We’re still trying to determine the right age to introduce our kiddos to the wonder that is Iceland. Not only will they need to be steady on their feet, but they'll also need to appreciate the untouched beauty of this wonderful island nation.
Hubs and I wanted to do something untraditional for our honeymoon. We didn’t want to sit on a beach—we wanted to be adventurous. So after an extremely hot (think surface of the sun) wedding day in August, we packed a backpack each and flew from BWI to Reykjavik to begin our one-week road trip around the island. There isn’t great cell service as you’re trying to navigate the island, so be ready to go old school and use a map (we purchased one at a gas station). See below for our itinerary and hot spots and reach out if you have any questions. I love talking about Iceland. Warning: this is a long post, but there’s just so much to see and do in Iceland. It’ll always hold a dear place in my heart, and not just because we went for our honeymoon. The island is truly magical and the people even more wonderful. And the food? Delightful.
Notes and Tips:
Weather in August averaged in the mid to high 50’s/low 60’s Fahrenheit, and because it was mid August, there was about 16 hours of sunlight. All the places we stayed at had blackout curtains because the sun didn’t set until 11pm or midnight. We went the second week of August so it was too early to see the Northern Lights, but there’s always next time.
We took lots of granola bars and snacks and purchases snacks for the car before heading out on our journey around the island. Most guest houses/hotels offer complimentary breakfast in the mornings, which we took advantage of. Iceland is expensive (most things are imported), so we usually splurged for dinner.
We drove counterclockwise around the island, starting and ending in Reykjavik.
It gets dark at night—you’re not in big cities. On one of our first few nights, I awoke to complete darkness (because of blackout curtains) and started screaming that I had went blind. My husband turned on the lights and assured me that I wasn’t blind, and we had a good laugh.
We packed athleisure, hiking boots, lots of socks, a bathing suit, and fleece with a rain jacket. If you’re going in the summer, you may want to take some thing gloves, but you don’t need much winter gear. Make sure you pack a water bottle for hikes (and to drink out of waterfalls).
There aren’t too many rails in Iceland. You literally can walk off a hill and into a waterfall so best to have young kids secure, or wait until they’re a bit older and steady on their feet if you want to see it all.
The drives never feel too long in Iceland. The terrain changes so much and there’s so much to see. We made frequent stops on the side of Rt 1 to take photos with wild horses and sheep.
Day 1-Reykjavik
We landed in Reykjavik after a 6 hour flight from BWI. We picked up our VW Gulf from the airport (stick shift), and headed straight to our hotel.
There aren’t many huge chain hotels in Iceland (I didn’t see any at all, actually). The places we stayed in were clean and simple-they got the job done. I’m sure there are more “luxurious” spots around the country, but we weren’t going for that because we only needed a spot to rest our head at night. We stayed at the Room With a View Luxury Apartments in a budget studio with private external bathroom. The folks at the front desk were so sweet and gave us a bottle of champagne because we were honeymooners. Bonus, it’s centrally located!
People rent vans that they can sleep in as well. We didn’t want to rough it that much (it was our honeymoon, after all). Our VW Gulf was fine, and we spent a ton of time in it.
What did we eat?
The Laundromat Cafe: We went here for brunch after checking in and got some coffees and avocado toast. It’s a great spot for people watching, and the food was very good. And yes, it’s a laundromat (but very cutely decorated) with bar seating in the middle.
Hot dogs at Baejarins Beztu Pyslur (translation: “the best hot dog in town”): When in Iceland, have a hot dog. We ate here for dinner and ended up going back the next morning before leaving because, wow. This is just an unassuming hot dog stand, but was so totally worth the 25 min line we stood in. We got the works— ketchup, sweet mustard, fried onion, raw onion and remolaði (mayo sauce with sweet relish). Hot dogs were eaten in some misty rain under an awning.
What did we do?
Whale and Puffin Watching: This was one of the highlights of our trip. We ended up seeing so many whales and got really close up. The puffins are adorable. You can eat both when in Iceland if that’s up your alley, but after watching them on the boats and hearing the animal conservationists emphasize the importance of saving these animals, we made a vow not to try (doubtful we would have regardless though).
Reykjadalur Hot Springs: The wonderful woman at the front desk at the Room With a View Luxury Apartments suggested we try this spot. Looked like a lot of locals frequented these hot springs, and we were so happy we visited Fair warning, it’s a 2.5 mile hike uphill to get here, but the route is gorgeous and you run into many wild sheep on your way up. They don’t come to you—they coexist. Once there, we popped our bottle of champagne and enjoyed a break in the springs.
Sheep are everywhere in Iceland. We saw them on the side of roads when driving and ran into them when hiking. They outnumber Icelanders—there are more than two sheep per human on the island.
Make sure you bring a towel and layers to change back into. There are no bathrooms.
Wandered around Reykjavik: The city is very walkable and the people are so sweet. Make sure you take some time to wander. Make a stop at Hallgrímskirkja, a gorgeous Lutheran church that has the best bird’s eye view of the city, in my opinion.
Day 2-Þingvellir
Þingvellir is about a 45 min drive from Reykjavik. This was our first day using a real paper map instead of Google and we had no idea how to get on the infamous Rt. 1 (the route that goes around the island). A man we asked for help from told us to follow him. We later discovered he went 15 min out of his way to direct us to Rt. 1. He got out of the his truck and told us to enjoy Iceland before heading back to where we found him in Reykjavik. The lovely people of Iceland.
Ah, Þingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here, we visited Strokkur, an active geyser that shoots hot, boiling water 100 feet into the air. It’s a sight to see. We also visited Golfoss, the island’s most famous waterfall. If we had more time, we would have gone scuba diving (you have to be certified) or snorkeling between two continents. Yep-you read that right. This is an unreal spot where we watched people get into icy cold water (with wet gear) and swim between North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. I mean, what?!
After leaving Þingvellir, we drove about 1 hour 45 min to Seljalandsfoss, another beautiful waterfall. This was my husband’s favorite (which is crazy, because each seemed better than the last). This was our first of many times during the trip where we dipped our water bottles into the bottom of the falls and drank the most refreshing water we’ve ever had. You can walk behind this waterfall, which is a view that I’ll never forget.
From here, we went to our hotel for the night in Selfoss, Guesthouse Lambastadir. We stayed in a double room with private bathroom. This is a secluded guest house on a farm with a hot tub and sauna. The views outside at night are breathtaking—the stars shine brighter than I could have ever imagined, and they include a wonderful breakfast buffet with Icelandic Skyr (yogurt), fruit, hard boiled eggs, and cheese.
What did we eat?
Tryggvaskáli Restaurant: My favorite meal of the trip, located in Selfoss. You must visit here! We both ordered the lamb and chocolate cake for dessert. I still haven’t had lamb this good anywhere else in the world. This spot is small and cozy and is located in Selfoss.
Day 3-Skogafoss Waterfall, Seljavallalaug Secret Pool, and Vik
We drove 1 hour 20 min to Skogafoss Waterfall from Selfoss after breakfast the next morning.
Skogafass is one of the largest waterfalls in Iceland. You take 500 or so steep steps to the top of the waterfall to see a gorgeous view of the coast. This is why kids should be steady on their feet-I’d be a wreck with toddlers. One slip and eek!
From Skogafass, we drove about 30 minutes to the Seljavallalaug Secret Pool, a hidden (hard to find) pool that’s fed by hot springs and tucked away in the mountains. The pool was built in the 1920s by a guy that wanted Icelanders to use it as a place to learn how to swim. Like I said, it’s not an easy place to find-and Google maps and regular maps aren’t going to help.
To get to Seljavallalaug Secret Pool, turn onto Rt. 242 (it’s a left from the counter clockwise route we took) off Rt. 1. You’ll go down a gravel road and eventually see a parking lot. From there, walk about 20 min along the valley until you get to the pool. They have a changing room but no bathrooms!
After relaxing at the Secret Pool, we drove about 45 min south to Vik.
Vik is a coastal town along the Atlantic Ocean with volcanic black sand beaches. And boy is it picturesque. When driving into town, we came around a curve and saw the Vik i Myrdal Church, a small church with a red roof and steeple facing the sea. We frolicked amongst giant sunflowers and explored the beach.
This town is remote. Like 300 people live here remote. My high school graduating class was 500+! This was my favorite spot of the trip, and I’ll never forget how excited I was to skip boulders to the middle of the ocean from the shore.
Kids will love this spot—truly feels like you’re on another planet.
One of the best parts about our stop in Vik was where we stayed. We spent the night in cute cottages not far from town that we booked via Airbnb (see photos below). We had a great time sitting outside with a couple of beers at night enjoying the silence and comforting Icelandic air.
What did we eat?
Halldórskaffi Cafe and Bar: Not the best meal we had, but we were starving after a day of exploration. We got pizza and a burger and a couple of beers. This spot is in Vik and not far from the black sand beach.
Day 4-Jökulsárlón and Höfn
We had granola bars for breakfast and headed on our way to Jökulsárlón from Vik. The drive was only 2.5 hours, but we ended up at a glacier lagoon! This is what I loved most about Iceland. The island is small, but the cities are all so unique. We took a boat tour amongst the icebergs and held ice that was over 1,000 years old! Make sure you plan to be here for quite some time. I booked ahead of time and was glad I did because the tours book up fast. It wasn’t cold at all in August, especially because the sun was shining. There’s also a chance to spot lots of unique wildlife here.
From Jökulsárlón, we drove an hour to the charming fishing town of Höfn, aka the lobster capital of Northern Europe! We stayed at the Apotek Guesthouse. Not the nicest of accommodations we stayed at, but again-got the job done (restful night’s sleep). This spot is right in town and walking distance from the lobster restaurant we ate at, Humarhöfnin Veitingahús. The lobster was amazing, and I shed a few tears when I learned that the restaurant is now permanently closed. Another option for good lobster in Höfn is Pakkus Restaurant.
We walked around town after dinner and grabbed some more granola bars and snacks for the road.
Day 5-Myvatn Nature Baths and Akureyri
On Day 5, we left Höfn to make a stop at Myvatn Nature Baths (5 hours 20 min), a lesser known version of the highly-instagrammed Blue Lagoon in Reykjavik.
This road is rough and parts unmarked. We almost died on this part of the trip because it got real foggy and we were driving along a very narrow mountain road for about 35 min. Luckily, we drove very close behind a car in front of us (if they went, we would have too) and held our breaths the entire time. When we finally got to the main road again, we air high-fived our angels and made our way to Myvatn.
Myvatn was our favorite of the two because you’re swimming in a giant geothermal-heated pool along of lava fields and craters. We felt like we were on Mars. Remember, just the day before we were taking a boat across a pool of icebergs! The Mubarak Nature Baths also have beer and wine for purchase on-site. Don’t forget your towel or you’ll have to rent one! They also rent bathing suits and robes if you need it.
After our afternoon at Myvatn, we drove west an hour 15 min to Akureyari. This was my husband’s favorite city. It’s the second largest city in Iceland after Reykjavik. It was nice to roam around the city and enjoy the people after being in smaller towns for the past few days. This is also where we did most of our souvenir shopping. Akureyari is known for whale watching so this would be a good spot to do so if you didn’t get a chance in Reykjavik. We opted to take it easy and enjoy a slow dinner at Rub 23, which was the BEST sushi we’ve had anywhere. The restaurant is very modern and has a great selection of beer and wine. After dinner, we wandered over to Brynjuis for the creamiest soft serve. Twas an amazing night.
Day 6-Snaefellsnes Peninsula
Our last day was a bummer because I wish we would have planned to spend two days at the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. From Akureyari, the drive to the Peninsula (so beautiful btw) was a long 4 hours 20 min. We saw majestic wild horses, untouched fields of flowers, and several rainbows.
On the way to Snaefellsnes, we made sure to stop at Goðafoss aka the "waterfall of the Gods,” and in case you’re wondering, it lived up to its name. It’s actually many waterfalls in one. Definitely a must-see.
Snaefellsjokul National Park on the Sneafellsnes Peninsula had some crazy waves. The national park is well maintained and worth the trek out to the peninsula. We also took a look at the gorgeous Gerðuberg cliffs— towering columns made by ancient lava flows.
We stayed at the Grundorgjordur Guesthouse and Apartments, which aren’t much to write home about, but the location was convenient and rooms clean. We had dinner at Bjargarsteinn Mathús (be sure to make a reservation ahead of time), which was the icing on top of a great time in Iceland. Be sure to order the fish soup-I still dream about it (and the butter for the fresh bread).
Day 7-Blue Lagoon
Our last day led us back to Reykjavik. We had an evening flight so we spent the day at the Blue Lagoon. I’m sure you’ve seen this nature bath with the bright blue water all over Instagram. It was a nice, relaxing way to end the trip. Bonus-it’s very close to the airport. We booked a package, which came with a towel and access to all the Lagoon’s facilities, including a locker and silica mud mask. We also both got a complimentary drink. After spending a few hours in the Blue Lagoon pool, we had a very fancy (and expensive) lunch at their on-site restaurant before heading to the airport.
Have any questions about Iceland or navigating the island? Feel free to drop me a note! Bright travels!
